SAN ANDRÉS DE TEIXIDO
More than Santiago de Compostella, Finisterre or Muxia the little village of San Andrés de Teixido holds together in its legends Greek myths, Celtic tradition, magic and the belief that Saint Andrew arrived here by boat from Greece, just as that of St. James arived in Padrón, another village in A Coruña, the most north-westerly province in Spain.
The best known doctrine of San Andrés is that each person has to pass by this spot before death or else is condemned to returning incarnated as a reptile to do so. It is a place between this world and the next. In this silent and remote spot it is easy to allow the imagination to travel out to sea with the setting sun to bow down into the Island of Eternal youth.
It is a place to drink in Celtic tradition and local orujo which is a herb flavoured liquor. The 16th C church has a privileged view out over the highest cliffs in Europe. Breathe deeply the Atlantic from on high and feel connected to the great mysteries of Life itself.
I suppose that death, young death and sudden death, sharpen instantly our awareness of how short and fragile life can be. People bring life and after-life together in symbols which transcend the finality of life in this world.
There are few tourists and those who do visit don’t stay long, just enough to ensure they don’t have to return (as a lizard or a snake). If any pilgrim to Santiago wishes to continue after Santiago this is a great spot to replace Finisterre. The atmosphere is thick and heavy with Celtic spirit- quite the opposite of Iona which is often described as a thin place, a place where, in life, you can feel in heaven.
Also it is quite easy to reach being a couple of days walking from Ferrol, the starting point of the Camino Ingles, with a well signposted path.
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