Category Archives: Extremadura

Robledillo de Gata.

Robledillo de Gata
Robledillo de Gata

Robledillo de Gata.

It is in the North of the Province of Caceres which is in the top of the Southern half of Spain with Portugal to the West and is the last village in the Sierra de Gata, lying right to its western flank and so neatly tucked under the meseta of Salamanca to the North that its inhabitants speak more like the folk in Castilla&Leon than Extremadurans (Extremeños, really), which they are.  Here is a map to make it easier:

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Robledillo de Gata, Caceres, Extremadura, Spain

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Robledillo de Gata, Caceres, Extremadura, Spain 40.322419, -6.470992 Robledillo de Gata, Spain (Directions)

An Olive Oil Museum, Honey and steep streets.

Sign to the Olive Oil Museum
Sign to the Olive Oil Museum

I visited the Olive Oil Museum several years ago and I learned a lot but have forgotten all of it now but it is well worth a visit.  The purpose of my trip was to buy honey and pollen for which the Sierra is famous.

Honey, nobody is at home.
Honey, nobody is at home.

Unfortunately the house was empty but I tracked down the woman who sells the honey coming out of evening Mass and heading for the bar with her friends.

The honey lady in green.

The honey lady in green chatting with the priest.

I caught up with her in the bar which is right at the top of the village. Since her house is at the bottom and the roads are very steep I agreed to return another day for the honey.

The bar.
The bar Barrero.

The Church of Our Lady of the Assumption.

The 16th  C Church of Our Lady.
The 16th
C Church of Our Lady.

The Church had emptied and had been well locked up by the time I arrived.  It was formerly a palace of the Monroy family and then passed on to some dukes from Benavente, up North in Castilla.  They however, lost it in a dispute with the villagers and it was converted into the Church of today.

The Church pillars have interesting carvings and all in all remains palacial.
The Church pillars have interesting carvings and all in all remains palatial.

Today is the feat of St. George who is a big saint in Cataluña – and also celebrated in Salamanca.  In Extremadura it is not a holiday but some other villages have processions.

Coming downhill to the Church.
Coming downhill to the Church.

April 23rd, feast of St. George.

It was appropriate, therefore, that hanging from a window was a boy named George.

George on his feast  day.
George on his feast day.

The women who had just come out from the Church were congratulating him on his feast day but George was much more interested in discussing the Champions League semi final draw possiblilities.  George is 18, according to the women and hangs out of a beautifully flowered balcony.

A meadow, a black dog and narrow streets.

Springtime in Robledillo.
Springtime in Robledillo.

The apple trees had already lost their blossom and this meadow was overgrown.  By July it will be baked dry, although the village has a small river running through it and several fountains with good untreated water.

The black dog.
The black dog.

This little black dog was suitably inoffensive in this very peaceful town which has a good offering of well-restored traditional houses for visitors who come to enjoy the peace.

The former main road into Robledilla.
The former main road into Robledilla.

And finally,

Just as I am recovering from my worst cold for many years I thought I would take a photo of these two lovely children holding hands when one of them sneezed.  Very politely she sneezed onto the pavement, evidence of the village’s aristocratic past.

Well-mannered children of Robledillo de Gata.
Well-mannered children of Robledillo de Gata.
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Calzadilla de los Barros – Badajoz.

Calzadilla de los Barros – Badajoz.

One of the fountains in Calzadilla, a spectacular drinking font used by both people and animals.
One of the fountains in Calzadilla, a spectacular drinking font used by both people and animals.

Calzadilla de los Barros lies on the Via de La Plata, the Roman road running  from the South of Spain, North to Asturias.  It now is used by pilgrims as part of the Camino de Santiago and several thousand pass through Calzadilla each year.  There is a municipal hostel at 2 km from the town and also a Bar/Restaurant with rooms which are good value for pilgrims.

Hostal los Rodriguez. They wash pilgrims clothes free of charge.  Very welcoming.
Hostal los Rodriguez. They wash pilgrims clothes free of charge. Very welcoming.

The Hostal must have seen better times since it was on the main road from Seville to Salamanca.  Now, however, with the motorway nearby, people whizz by Calzadilla and it might risk being completely unknown were it not for its Mayor, Antonio Galván Porras, who keeps it firmly on the map.

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Calzadilla de los Barros

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Calzadilla de los Barros 38.300457, -6.317465 Calzadilla de los Barros, Badajoz, Spain (Directions)

Antonio Galván Porras, Mayor fo Calzadilla de los Barros.

 

The Mayor of Calzadilla de los Barros and Senator  of the Kingdom of Spain, Señor Antonio Galván Porras
The Mayor of Calzadilla de los Barros and Senator of the Kingdom of Spain, Señor Antonio Galván Porras

Every village has its dissidents, of course, and political life in Spain is not a sleepy affair.  However, the Mayor’s projects make a long and impressive list of public works and networking.  Antonio Galván is a man of action.  He even proposed that we might have a photo taken together, but, in the end, he was busy with arangements for a plaque, another of many, commemorating his works within the village.

There are plaques like this all over Calzadilla inaugrating pars, plazas, works of restoration and  other municipal initiatives.
There are plaques like this all over Calzadilla inaugurating parks, plazas, works of restoration and other municipal initiatives.

A village with beautiful palm trees.

The plaque above commemorates the openning of this park, one of several with fine palm trees.
The plaque above commemorates the opening of this park, one of several with fine palm trees.

The Ayuntamiento is in the Plaza Mayor and has two very tall palms right outside, like guards of honour.

Ayuntamiento de Calzadilla de los Barros.
Ayuntamiento de Calzadilla de los Barros.

In the same square is the office of the political opposition who have been mounting a campaign against plans to renovate the village bull-ring.

Protests platered on the wall of the local PSOE headquarters.
Protests platered on the wall of the local PSOE headquarters.

The Plaza Mayor is, however, a peaceful spot and I sat contentedly there in the sun waiting for the shop to open at 6pm, after a duly lengthy siesta.  This is the centre of the villages life with the medical center under the arches and the tobacconist opposite.

The archways in the Plaza Mayor, Calzadilla de los Barros.
The archways in the Plaza Mayor, Calzadilla de los Barros.

The Church of the Divine Saviour.

Church of the Divine Saviour, Calzadilla de los Barros.
Church of the Divine Saviour, Calzadilla de los Barros.

The Church in Calzadilla is in the same square as the bakers.

The same church.
The same church.

This church is the most prominent building in Calzadilla and, unusually, the Camino de Santiago misses it out of its route.

San Salvador, Calzadilla de los Barros.
San Salvador, Calzadilla de los Barros.

The retablo behind the altar is a fine legacy of the days when many young men from Extremadura went off to discover the New World and returned with wealth.  This retablo was constructed in honour of  Captain Juan Navarro who died while on Service in Mexico.

The hermitage of the Incarnation.
The hermitage of the Incarnation.

Around the same time, in the 16thC the hermitage of the Incarnation was built on the hill overlooking the town and it has a lovely courtyard.

Lemons blend with mimosa in a fragrant courtyard at the hemitage, Calzadilla de los Barros.
Lemons blend with mimosa in a fragrant courtyard at the hemitage, Calzadilla de los Barros.

Street names.

The streets in the village are named after local people, a primary school teacher, a postman and a footballer.  This felt very homely and gave me a sense of the importance of everyone in this village.

Not just famous footballers, but many ordinary folk are remembered in the street names.
Not just famous footballers, but many ordinary folk are remembered in the street names.

A Poem to Calzadilla de los Barros.

 

by Rufino Sanchez Lozano

A CALZADILLA DE LOS BARROS
(El pueblo de mis padres)

Es en medio de mis sueños,
sueños alegres y extraños,
cuando recuerdo tus calles
siendo tan solo un “chiquillo”
con menos de los diez años.

Pisaba alegre tu suelo,
pisaba alegre tus calles,
corriendo por tus callejas,
por la Plaza, por tus lares,
y por cualquier callejuela
con ortigas ó zarzales.
P1110982
Desde el “Legío” a la Ermita
del Pilar hasta la Fuente,
de casa de mi Tia Aurora
a casa de mi Tio Pepe,
visitaba a mi tia Carmen
y también a Tia Regina
y sin pensar tan si quiera
que mi abuela la “ Tia Gloria”
me echaría la “regañina”.

Eres pueblo de mis padres
y también de mis abuelos.
Tú me acogiste de niño
y en ti nacieron mis sueños
y aunque sueño con volver
sé que volveré de nuevo,
aunque sea solamente
solo a darte las gracias,
y se, que yo debo hacerlo.

Mientras me conformaré
con recorrerte en mis sueños
con remontarme al pasado
y atesorar tus recuerdos.

Rufino Sánchez Lozano
El Serrano Enmascarado
17 de Enero de 2015

That sums it up.  Thanks, Rufino.

Calzadilla de los Barros
Calzadilla de los Barros